Please help - outboard motor mount

[cjdavia]

Cfos,

I like what you are thinking, and I have been thinking about something similar. However, since my transom is hollow, instead of bolting the back mounting plate directly to the transom I was thinking that we could build the mounting plate all the way up the transom, horizontally across the top of the transom, and then down the inside of the transom. We could install adjustable/sliding brackets between the horizontal top part and the inside vertical part secured with wing nuts so the inside piece clamps securely on the transom.

On a different theme, I am also thinking about taking Chris' advice and installing that deck plate in the aft part of the seat. A 4" circle may give me just enough room to squeeze some reinforcing wood inside the transom allowing me to bolt on my bracket. Fun stuff. I wish I could stop thinking about this and just get to the water!

-Chris

[cjdavia]

Chris R,

I am seriously considering the deck plate. It will help me reinforce the area inside the transom and get at the mounting bolts, but I have a question: do you know if the deck plates are a little plyable?

The area I wish to mount it -- vertically under the seat by the transom -- is not perfectly flat. Unfortunately it is slightly curved (about 1/8-3/16 inch). Have you experienced this type of installation in the past and do you think I can pull it off?

Thanks,
Chris

[Reyher]

Yes it's a bit pliable alright, BUT, since the cover screws into the ring that is mounted on the surface, it's not going to go in without a real struggle if it goes in at all. There is an "O" ring seal recessed in the ABS ring itself that needs to be considered as well.

There is a model that has a "pry off" cover that might work, however it would not be as secure, IMHO.

You might try to get your hands on one to test the flexibility. Those on kayaks (although not exactly the same but very flexible) pry off and they are water proof. If you are aware of any Kayak accessory dealers in your area, you might give them a call. Heck, you can probably find one on the internet!

Another option would be to find some material that would serve as a thick gasket that would absorb the uneven surface, leaving the deck plate ring flat. Silicone sealant might work.

[cjdavia]

Well, I spoke with a couple of fiberglass repairmen, and they pretty much agree that the 'right' way to get my outboard mounted is to cut open the transom, reinforce the inside of transom with marine plywood, fiberglassed in place with cloth and a thick epoxy/glass mixture. Then patch it back up, seal it, and repaint it... Total cost: around 600$. This hurts, especially when I only payed $1K for the boat and trailer.

So I've made the executive decision to mount this thing as best I can without cutting open the transom. If the fiberglass happens to crack sometime in the future, then I'll go ahead and do the extensive transom work. So here is what I am proposing to do:

Custom cut, stain/seal, adhere, and caulk 3/4" marine plywood to both sides of the transom. Make these pieces as long as possible to distribute the weight.

Drill 2 new holes for the lower mounting bolts in my garelick adjustable stationary mounting bracket (#71075), about 2 inches higher than the existing ones. I'll use these instead of the bottom 2 holes, allowing me to bolt the bracket right through the reinforced transom without needing to cut an access hole under the seat. I hope that since the bracket is strong enough to support a heavy 15HP motor -- and my motor is only 2HP, I can get away with moving those lower mounting bolts up 2 inches without causing any trouble.

So now my worry is that the entire 30 pounds of the motor is being supported by 2 pieces of fiberglass, sandwiched between 2 pieces of plywood. I don't think this is as secure as clamping the motor over the top of the transom......

Here is where I had a pretty good brainfart -- If I could attach a strap or piece of flexible aluminum to both sides of the upper mounting bolts, across the top of the transom, then some of the motor's weight could be distributed to the top of the transom, similar to what was happenning when I hang the motor over the transom and secure it using c-brackets.

This seems a bit hokey but the straps will allow some of the weight to hang over the top of the transom while still being supported by the mounting bolts, bolted through the transom.

Do you think this could work and what could I potentially use for those hanging straps?

-Chris

[cfos]

Chris,
I said "well, duh" to myself when you mention making new holes in the bracket. Since I am for below the design weight as well, I do not forsee a problem. I did check and my Mod I is hollow, at least it seems that way.

Thanks for the suggestion,
Craig

[cjdavia]

Craig,

Since your transom is also hollow, what do you think about devising some way to partially hang our mount over the top of the transom?

My fiberglass is very springy like an oil can on both sides of the hollow transom where the bracket would go, so I am concerned that the sides of the transom will not be able to hold the weight of the motor.

It seems to me that the top of the transom is more solid and can bear more weight. When I clamped the motor down on the top of the transom it seemed pretty secure (but of course it gets in the way of the traveler).

Maybe figuring out a way to bolt the bracket through the transom AND hang the bracket over the top of transom would be best. What do you think? Let's keep communicating and see what we come up with!

-Chris

[cfos]

Chris,
My brother has a 27 ft Hunter and is quite experience with fiberglass, etc. I will be meeting him, my other brother and Dad on Lake Erie tomorrow for 5 days of cruiser sailing. My Dad was a plastics engineer and a Sunfish and Butterfly racer in his day. I plan to get their advice on this whole subject and will tell you what they think after i refturn.

Craig

[cjdavia]

Hi Craig,

Thanks a ton for asking around, I could use as much advice as possible.

I just remembered that you have an electric motor, so you don't even need to worry about issues like the weight of the motor.... Thanks again and have fun sailing!

-Chris

[Terraplane]

Finally remembered to take my camera to the lake. This is how we mounted the "factory" motor mount. Notice that we flipped the brackets inward so we could put the motor further away from the rudder. Up or down the motor doesn't interfere with the traveler. I don't see any problems with the brackets facing inward. Hope you find this useful. I've never loaded photos like this.

Paul

[cjdavia]

Hi Paul,

Thanks for your help, your idea of placing the mounting bolts to the inside of the bracket sounds great. Unfortunately the pictures did not make it to your posting. Would you mind emailing them to: cjdavia@hotmail.com?

Since it is going to take 6-8 weeks to get a new factory mount from catalina direct, I decided to buy the generic one that Garelick produces. I think the mounting bracket on the Garelick is not as wide as the factory mount, so I think it will not interfere with the tiller.... but any pictures you could send me could really help me out.

Thanks again, I really appreciate it!

Chris

[cjdavia]

I want to thank everyone who helped me with this project. It was very scary drilling holes in my first boat, but everything worked out better than I expected.

I tested it over the weekend - the motor sits out of the way of the traveller and my hollow transom did not budge! Before this project, the weight of the motor would make both sides of the transom spring in and out like an oil can.

The solution I chose was:
1) Custom cut, sand, stain, varnish, and adhere 3/4" marine plywood to either side of the transom. I decided to miter the edges so water would have a better chance of dripping off the plywood
2) Drill 2 new custom mounting holes in the Garelick mounting bracket, allowing the bolts to live above the port seat


For those of you that are interested, here are some pics -- I must admit that I am HORRIBLE at caulking, but I guess all is well that ends well.

Thanks again to everyone!
-Chris Davia

[Reyher]

That looks great, Chris! You should have been a ship builder.
It just shows that with a little research and careful thought
a guy can ususally overcome obsticles very nicely. Congratulations!
P.S. Aren't thoses little Honda 2hps super!

[cjdavia]

Thanks for your compliments - I definately had fun obsessing over something other than work!

It is funny that you asked about the motor, I just dropped it off at the shop for servicing. I'm not a happy camper right now.

I purchased it one month ago, and since picking it up from the dealer, I've only used it twice -- about 15 mins each time. I did not have a good experience either time. For some reason it leaks quite a bit of oil from the back underside of the case, and after running at 70% throttle for about 15 mins it starts winding down, almost like it is running really rich and about to stall, and then a large, smelly, dark cloud of exhaust fume emits around the top of the motor! I lowered the throttle to get back to shore, and when I pulled my motor out of the water, I noticed a lot of dark, chalky soot around all of the ports.

According to the dealer it is possible that they put too much oil in it, but I don't buy that excuse -- I can see an air bubble way up towards the top of the gauge, I think the oil level is fine. The dealer thinks that I am transporting it improperly, but I am lying it down on the side that has the extra rubber, just like the manual suggests.

I've never had an outboard before, so maybe I am over-reacting and maybe I should just wait for it to break in, but I feel like the longer I sit on this the harder it will be to assure them that this is not something I caused.

I know that Honda makes a really good engine -- this outboard makes us a 4-honda family (two cars, outboard, and a lawnmower) and I'm sure it will work out well, -- before it starts choking it is really great, but I can't help but feel a bit pissed off, the thing cost more than my boat and trailer!

-Chris

[Reyher]

Hey Chris! Sorry you are having problems with the OB. Your quote: "According to the dealer it is possible that they put too much oil in it, but I don't buy that excuse -- I can see an air bubble way up towards the top of the gauge, I think the oil level is fine.'
If you look on page 16 of the owners manual it shows the minimum and maximum levels in the sight glass. If there is just an air bubble way up towards the top, it is definately over filled causing oil to get in the cylinder (not condusive to optimum combustion). Not a a big problem to fix though. There is a drain plug just below the sight glass.
I can't believe that your Honda dealer was not more careful. Don't let him charge you for correcting his mistake!

[cjdavia]

Holy Moly!

You are right! it looks like the dealer put way too much oil in there. I wonder if too much oil could cause those black discharge spots around the ports. I am interested in the dealer's diagnosis, now that my Honda in their hands...

Thanks a ton,
-Chris